Even with OLD, GOOD wires this can happen to you!!!


OUR WIRING HARNESSES ARE BRAND NEW
AND BETTER THAN N.O.S. (new old stock)
Here's why:
Let's face it folks, auto makers never designed a wiring harness to last 30-50 years. As a matter of fact, your car's wiring was only designed to last 10 years before it deteriorates! There is ample documentation to substantiate this claim.

Your car's wiring was made of copper with a plastic insulation. The plastic insulation was porous. Contaminants, like oxygen, moisture and airborne pollutants, eventually pass through the insulation to attack the wire; a condition called oxidation. There is no practical way to completely seal off the circulation of air and moisture between the individual wire strands. Once the wire strands become oxidized, the internal resistance of the wire increases substantially. This is not a good thing for your car's electrical system.

If your wire has reached the next stage of deterioration by becoming brittle and cracked, it is in immediate need of replacement. At this stage, a short circuit to ground is eminent. In a worst case scenario, it can cause a fire.

Even if you are one of the few lucky enough to even find an N.O.S. wiring harness, these wire strands will have also deteriorated over time just by sitting on a shelf. For this reason, it would not be wise to purchase an N.O.S. harness.

The same corrosion factor happens to the wire's terminals over time.

Get rid of your car's electrical problems, or potential problems, by replacing all the wiring with new harnesses from
Steve's Camaro Parts
our Factory fit harnesses are made to exact factory specifications using the original factory blueprints. They are "correct" in every way with correct plugs. and you can easily replace your harness in just sections till its complete.

These wiring harnesses are necessary for:

• Owners who want an authentically restored, show-quality vehicle


• Those who want to replace their old original wiring


• Or those who want to add original, factory-installed options

we stock all the harnesses you see in our online store built just like factory - ready to install.

We suggest replacement of switches also, because contacts do wear out.

Underhood Details
Have you seen some really good looking cars,with shiny new paint and interiors, at shows and cruise ins. But why is the hood closed? pop the hood, you instantly see why. The engine and underhood compartment look every bit of 20-30 years old. Dirt and grease, rust, faded and flaking paint. Sound familiar? Want to do something about it? Youll have to invest in some time and work, but the results will be worth it. Youll no longer have to keep the hood closed, as a matter of fact, youll proudly have that hood up, for all to see. Lets get started.
The first order of business is to get the engine and engine compartment as clean and as free of dirt and grease as possible. A good product to use for this is some purple stuff called SuperClean, by Castrol.This product, plus a high pressure washer will really help get it clean. Now youre ready to pull the engine to get the best results. It really is easier to do this job right if you pull the engine, but satisfactory results can be had if you take off all the accessories and leave it in
Here are the basic colors in the compartment

* frame and upper/lower control arms and upper shafts-semigloss black
* front coil springs-gloss black or natural(better detail contrast)
* firewall, inner fenders, radiator support-semigloss black
* radiator and fan-gloss black
* fan clutch-natural aluminum
* radiator shroud-natural black plastic or gloss black
* steering box-natural cast iron gray
* steering linkage-natural steel
* front sway bar-natural cast iron gray
* heater or AC housing-semigloss black
* hood hinges, latch, catch and springs- gray phosphate plated
* brackets and steel pulleys-semi gloss or gloss black(gloss gives more detail contrast)
* cast iron pulleys- natural cast iron
* master cylinder- natural cast iron(some use gloss black)
* brake booster-gold cadmium plated(master cylinder lid also)
* windshield wiper motor-gloss black
* alternator- natural aluminum
* power steering pump-gloss black
* AC compressor-semigloss black
* steering column shaft-natural steel
* horns- gloss black
* coil- gloss black
* voltage regulator-gloss black
* distributor- natural aluminum with gloss black cap
* fuel and brake lines-natural steel
UNDERCARRIAGE DETAILS
* transmission-natural aluminum
* bellhousing-natural aluminum
* transmission support- semigloss black
* driveshaft- natural steel
* rear axle-semigloss black
* rear swaybar-semigloss black
* rear coil springs-gloss black
* rear control arms-semigloss black
* gas tank-natural steel(shiny)
* gas tank straps-gloss black
* parking brake cables-natural steel
THATS IT!!!
you should be looking pretty good.

RIM OFFSET DIA.

Wheels

...One of the most popular questions we have heard here is, " How do I measure a wheel's offset and what is the difference between a wheel's offset and it's backspacing?" At Steves Camaros, we handle a number of different types of wheels and we would like to help clear up any misunderstandings.
A wheel's backspacing refers to the measurement taken perpendicular from the mounting inner face of the wheel (the contact point where the wheel meets the brake rotor or drum) to the inner rim height.
A wheel offset refers to the distance between the mounting surface of the wheel and the rim centerline. The offset is positive when the mounting pad is outboard of the rim centerline and negative when inboard of the rim centerline. See Diagram for a complete understanding of these two important concepts.

Do It Right!

Do-it-yourself types tend not to want to spend money where they think they don't have to. So if a guy pulls apart his car, he might scoff at the thought of spending some of his hard earned budget on a replacement bolt kit, since he can always salvage the original stuff and fill in the blanks as needed, right? We say, if you take apart an old car that is anything less than mint to begin with, you ought to pony up for the repro bolt kit like the ones offered by Steves. These kits provide fasteners that not only function like the stock stuff, but also look just like original;BIG BONUS points with your buddies, it is restoration-quality stuff, after all. Everything in the kit is individually packaged and labeled with pages listed right from the build manual and when you're in the midst of trying to bolt the car back together, it's super sweet to be able to reach over and pick up a little baggie with exactly what you need. Get it done Right!!

Door-Lock Ferrules and Knobs

This will seem like a trivial detail, but I have a pet peeve regarding junk door-lock buttons. As small as they are, they're also the most obvious door item, and for some reason, on older cars, they've often been replaced with either the wrong type or universal parts-store wood junk. When the wrong buttons are used, they can bind and rattle in addition to looking lousy. New ones are offered for lots of popular cars all the way back to the '50s, and they can make a big difference in interior feel and function. The lock buttons on this '67 Camaro actually serve to guide the mechanism; new buttons and new ferrules are the best few dollars you can spend

Use Factory Assembly Specs

We all know how to spin wrenches, and most of us are convinced we know how to take apart and reassemble our cars blindfolded, but do you really know everything you should? Unless a factory assembly manual was used to glean techniques, procedures, and specifications, you probably don't. For example, the subframe on an early Camaro is pretty easy to bolt up, but did you know there are alignment holes in the floorpan to help square it up? Misaligned subframes, either from improper installation or worn-out bushings, are the source of much body-panel-gap frustration. Most factory manuals are reprinted, so see what the guys who built your car the first time had to say about it.

How do I remove a shipping bend from my brake line?

Shipping bends are usually clearly labeled to avoid confusing it with other bends.

Start by "unrolling" much of the shipping bend along the ground.

Finish by hand straightening this section to its original configuration

It's that easy! In just a few minutes your new line is ready to install.

Rare options on the Camaro

Camaros were available with a wide range of options, some of which were obscure, or simply not well documented, which cause them to be quite rare. Some examples:
* A67 Fold-Down Rear Seat - A common option on today's cars, but quite rare back then. Allows the back seat to fold down for more cargo carrying capacity. First-generation Camaros were notorious for unusually small trunks making this option useful for those that had to carry larger cargo than would fit in the trunk.
* V75 Liquid Tire "Chain" - An option on '69 Camaros that provided a dispenser with nozzles located in the rear tire wheel wells that would spray a special traction-enhancing liquid on the rear tires to help traction on snow and ice. Quite rare.
* JL8 4-Wheel Disc Brakes - Available on '69 high- performance Camaros. Installed mostly on Z-28 Camaros, but technically available on any model. 205 known to be produced. A similar Heavy-Duty Service Option disc-brake rear axle was available over-the-counter but differed from JL8 in the details.
* Factory Headers - Available on Z-28 Camaros as a dealer-installed item. Supplied in 1967-68 from the factory in the trunk of the car for installation by the dealer.
* U46 'Vigilite' Lamp Monitors - Special fiber-optic head and tail-lamp and directional signal monitors that allowed the driver to determine that all lights were working properly while sitting in the driver's seat.
* L78 396ci - Iron-head 396ci 375HP big-block. 4-bolt main block (all other Camaro 396s were 2-bolt mains), 11.0:1 compression forged pistons, high-performance large-port heads, heavy duty rods, special solid- lifter camshaft, aluminum intake manifold, and special Holley carburetor. Available and rare all years, quite rare in '67 (1,138 made).
* L89 Aluminum Head 396 - Available in '68 and '69. An addition to the L78 that replaced the iron heads with aluminum closed-chamber rectangular port heads. Very rare.
* U17 Tic-Toc-Tach: a dash-mounted tachometer that included a clock on the same dial face. While U17 was available all three years, the Tic-Toc-Tach version was only produced in 1968.
* AL4 Front Bench Seat - Optional front bench seat available in non-console cars (1967-68 only). Not available in convertible.
* Deluxe Houndstooth Interior - Deluxe door panels, with houndstooth cloth seat inserts.
* J52 Front disc brakes - Not very rare, but the 1967-68 calipers are 4-piston units and can be hard to find. The design was changed to a single-piston design in 1969.
* F41 Suspension - upgraded suspension components that allowed better cornering performance.